Sneaker culture 2023: Rising Trends

From roots in the hip-hop music scene and sport, sneaker culture has grown into a streetwear fashion and collectibles market with global appeal.

Sneaker sales slowed somewhat in the past year, down to 2.7% year-on-year from the white-hot 19.5% year-on-year growth seen in 2021. However, the long-term picture still looks bright, with investment bank Cowen predicting the market will achieve $30bn sales by 2030, and resale platform StockX reporting its best ever year of sales in 2022. With robust sales and a devoted second-hand audience, sneaker culture is here to stay.

Nike, Jordan, Adidas, New Balance and Converse remain the most coveted brands on the resale market, according to StockX data, but as the market matures there are growing opportunities for mid-tier and niche brands to gain a foothold. Brands such as Hoka and Salomon are rising in popularity, with Hoka clocking year-on-year sales growth of 90.8% in 2023. With lower price tags than some of the bigger brands, these shoes are proving popular with cash-strapped Gen Z and Millennial sneakerheads, while also providing something different that helps them stand out from the crowd. In the context of the ongoing cost of living crisis, the lower price tags also hold appeal.

Resale is a key aspect of sneaker culture. StockX experienced strong growth in 2022, with hundreds of thousands of new sellers making their first sale on the platform. The platform’s data also shows that around 50% of sales were from international sellers, showing the continuing growth of sneaker culture and its global appeal.

Fuelled by a buoyant second-hand market and sustained by a constant flow of new drops and collaborations, sneaker culture continues to grow and adapt to changing consumer expectations. Here we unpack rising trends emerging from the sector for 2023.

Women-centred drops

Luxury and designer streetwear sneaker collaborations have been around for years, but women sneakerheads – long an underserved group – are now finally getting the attention of brands. A new raft of sneaker drops in 2023 go beyond pastel colourways and towards collaborations and releases that specifically reference women’s experience, from hype-worthy designer releases to drops with a story to tell.

In February 2023, fashion brand Jacquemus announced a collaboration with Nike Air Force 1, set to arrive in the summer. The brand, best known for its viral tiny handbags, teased the launch of its Jacquemus Force 1 (‘JF1’) sneakers, fast becoming one of the most hotly anticipated drops in recent years. While details of the upcoming launch remain under wraps, a previous collaboration in 2022 between the two brands saw three runs of Jacquemus’ reimagining of the Nike Humara sell out almost immediately.

Announced the same month, a new collaboration between Air Jordan and Atlanta luxury boutique A Ma Maniére pays tribute to the perseverance of Black women and the daily challenges they face. A short film, ‘She Is The Blueprint‘, accompanied the launch, while only women were eligible to enter in-store raffles for a chance to buy the footwear.

As the market shifts to accommodate women and improve representation, expect to see more women-focused drops and collaborations with female designers coming to the fore throughout 2023 and beyond.

Outdoor drip

Outdoor brands are fast rising in relevance among the sneakerhead community. Trail running shoes and hiking models have been boosted by the pandemic-induced boom of interest in outdoor activities, especially among younger generations. In a 2022 survey, 45% of Brits said they spend more time outside since the pandemic. 

The combination of hard wearing performance, ongoing interest in hiking and the outdoors, as well as savvy brand collaborations, have sent the stock of outdoor sneaker brands soaring. Exemplifying this shift, Rihanna appeared for her 2023 Superbowl performance wearing the MM6 Maison Margiela x Salomon Cross Low sneakers. Salomon is currently the fastest growing brand on StockX, with sales up an incredible 2,277% in 2022 compared to 2021.

Brands aligned with the outdoors should think about how to maximise this moment in the spotlight. Consider collaborating with influencers on designs and drops that highlight the fulfilling aspects of exploring the great outdoors, and look at how to combine utilitarianism with city-ready style.

Sneaker destinations

Sneaker conventions are a mainstay in industry calendars, but sneaker-focused events are now branching out into attractions with broader consumer appeal. With the experience economy showing no signs of slowing down among consumers eager to get out and about and explore cultural attractions, sneaker destinations that go beyond retail stores are a rising prospect.

Opened in Singapore in 2023, Sneakertopia promises to be a sneakerhead paradise and an insight into street culture. Created by interior design company SPACElogic in partnership with ArtScience Museum, the exhibition brings together a huge range of sneaker-related ephemera across ten immersive zones, featuring artists murals, installations, designs, mixtapes and rare sneakers. Each area doubles as a social media-ready background, including Stave Harris’ Giant Skateboard and The Dream Closet. The exhibition debuted in Los Angeles back in 2019.

Louis Vuitton debuted its art-sneaker exhibition at Milan Fashion Week in February 2023. Titled White Canvas: LV Trainer in Residence, the exhibition leans into the collectible and exclusive nature of rare sneakers, positioning them as mini works of art. Originally conceived by LV’s former creative director, the late Virgil Abloh, it brought together New York graffiti artists for limited edition sneaker collaborations with the brand. The exhibition is also designed as a way to expose a new generation of young sneakerheads to the artists.